We arrive back in Manali just in time to see the "Buffalo cutting ceremony" at Dunghri - well theoretically. We are real softies and the bus ride from Delhi always takes it out of us - in short: we're knackered. After a lot of dithering and sitting around drinking coffee, Kurma and I leave for Dunghri only to discover that we're too late. The sacrifices have already taken place. Lots of fresh blood around the Hadimba Temple and still a lot of people sitting, chatting and waiting for the meal which is provided for all. This special prayer is called Mahasar (or Masar); sacrifices of a buffalo, several sheep, chickens, a fish and other animals and plants are made to Hadimba Devi.

24/07/03 wildlife in our room

We're sitting in the room, when Woody suddenly whispers "Sit still, don't move!" I think that it is just another fly which he wants to mash to pulp with one of our three fly swats (he is somewhat obsessed with flies). But no, a different kind of wildlife: a scorpion is sitting there next to the wall. About 3 cm long, dark brown. We stare at it, discussing what to do. Fly swat? No good. Book? No. Shoe? No. We can't decide till the little creature gets bored and crawls under a small tin trunk. Then we panic and jump into action, carefully lift the trunk and destroy the poor little thing with a - for this purpose exceptionally useful - Lonely Planet (its structural integrity hasn't been the same since) and a fly swat. I know: not very eco-fauna-pc - but then, we didn't fancy waking up with a scorpion smiling into our face.

30/07/03 Museum of Himachal culture in Dunghri

We have been so many times to Dunghri and never actually bothered to see the insides of the museum there. Today we pay the 10 Rs admission fee, the friendly woman next to the juice stall unlocks the door and switches the lights on for us. One big room is divided into several display areas. There is an old loom for weaving pattus or jackets, a spinning wheel, several devices used for work in the fields, old drums and other instruments. Show cases display old coins, handicraft and old household things (of which many can still be seen in use today). Nice is the display of wooden models of houses and temples of this area. The museum could do with a bit more funding; but it's well worth a visit.

08/08/03 cloudbursts

When I arrive in New Manali everything is shut, all shops are closed, even almost every restaurant has their shutter down. It is a sign of sympathy and respect for the people who died in the early morning in a cloudburst in Solang Nallah (about 14 km from Manali). Due to very heavy rain last night the temporary make-shift shelters of Nepali and Bihari construction labourers were swamped away by water and mud. 40 people died. About 3 weeks ago there had been another cloudburst around Kullu which claimed the lives of many labourers working on a government construction site. Government officials said at the time that 30 people had died, newspapers claimed it could have been up to 250. Final and reliable figures are hard to get by.

12/08/03 Raksha Bandha or Rakhi

And yet another bank holiday and Hindu festival. For Raksha Bandha (also called Rakhi) sisters tie a bracelet around the wrist of their brothers. Brothers give presents to the sisters in return. These bracelets can be anything from a simple string to fluffy toys on some ribbon to elaborate jewelry. Yesterday Manu market in New Manali was full with temporary stalls selling these "rakhis" (bracelets).

26/08/03 progress doesn't stop with kiltas

Apple picking season has started. Boxes are nailed, temporary tents for apple packing shoot up everywhere. The orchards are full with porters carrying back and neck breaking loads of apples in kiltas (weight of maybe 40 to 60 kg). Kiltas are the ubiquitous traditional conical shaped woven baskets employed in this area for carrying almost anything. Progress doesn't stop and we're stunned to see our first eco-unfriendly kilta. Bright red and made of nasty plastic.

06/09/03 apple harvest

The apple harvest is in full swing. The orchards and trees around here are full with people picking (and eating) apples. After they have been picked they are carried back to the house or to a temporary packing tent. There they are packed by special apple packers into wooden crates (about 20 kg of apple to a box), padded with hay and old newspaper. Most of the boxes are transported by truck to Delhi where the apple grower's commission agents sells them or sends them on to another part of the country. Unlike previous years the crop yield is very good, but prices is abysmally low since the market is flooded with apples.

13/09/03 never ending monsoon

Almost middle of september. The rains should have stopped by now, but the last few days were well and truely awful - never ending rain. According to the local "weather rule" it doesn't rain after the 20th Bhadro (local month) which was about a week ago. People are worried here and a few days ago there was a special puja (prayer) at Manu Temple in the village. It seems that the Gods are angry because some villagers had started cutting and drying grass (to be stored as hay in winter) earlier than the officially announced and accepted date.

Kirsten sep 2003	<< previous next >>
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